Wine Travel
Tuscany, Part II: Siena & the Colli Senesi...
The town hall with its soaring Torre del Mangia in the Piazza del Campo of Siena, Italy...
In the May/June edition of Vegas Wine News, we visited the lovely city of Florence and the wine region of Chianti Classico, stretching south from Florence and almost to the boundary of our now featured itinerary, Siena the nearby area of Colli Senesi.
Siena itself presents an idyllic destination for all wine lovers and history buffs. A historic rival of the larger city of Florence to the north, the two cities have fought bitter wars over land and influence for hundreds of years. Even today there exists a fierce competition between the two areas. Like Florence, Siena served as a bastion for culture and learning throughout the Renaissance. Parts of the original defensive walls encircling the town and built to protect the city from attackers (who were usually from Florence), still remain.
Originally founded sometime before 400 BC by the Etruscans, Siena did not attain much status under the Roman Empire. During the 12th Century, it began to prosper as an important trading center, relying on the wool trade and its strategic location along the same Via Cassia route that runs through the town today. In the 13th Century the “modern” Siena began to take shape with the building of the Cathedral and the Piazza del Campo, two important landmarks that still attract visitors after 700 years. For a time Siena operated as an independent city state until its defeat in 1554 by a coalition of Spanish and Florentine armies that put siege to the city. Thereafter, the Grand Duchy of Tuscany, largely controlled by the Medici family from Florence, annexed Siena. Tuscany eventually became part of Italy when the country unified in the 19th Century.
Siena revels in its historic past, still keeping the various ward designations for certain neighborhoods that emanated from medieval times. Today, those wards continue to maintain the same venerable rivalries, albeit now the rivalries are, at least for the most part, played out in friendly competitive events such as soccer matches or the famous “Palio” event. The Palio features a dramatic horse race through the city’s main square, the Piazza del Campo. Colorful parades in very authentic looking medieval costumes precede the race. The race itself provides incredible drama and always receives television coverage within Italy. The Piazza del Campo, with the horses galloping around the tight shell-shaped piazza, makes for some wonderful opportunities for photographers and artists. Each ward has its own horse and rider, and the event continues throughout the day until one horse eventually triumphs. After the race, the winning neighborhood breaks out in a celebration that goes on for days. The event takes place twice each summer. The township with the last win parties best...
Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Siena’s old town features winding, ancient streets, interspersed with lovely architecture and some striking sights, including both the Cathedral (known as the Duomo) and Piazza del Campo, The town hall, known locally as the Palazzo Pubblico, is the crown architectural jewel of the square. Finished during the 13th Century, the lovely structure includes a soaring campanile, the Torre del Mangia, which provides stunning views of Siena and the surrounding countryside. More than 400 steps challenge those seeking the panorama. Built to surpass the height of the tallest building in Florence, the structure was the tallest in Italy when completed in 1344.
The Piazza Salimbeni at night..
The Piazza Salimbeni, a little square encased by superb architecture, proves worth a visit, especially at night where the sublime lighting and statue makes a perfect place for a romantic moment. Absent that, it also makes a great place for a photograph.
Instead of housing armies, Siena’s fortress now acts as a park, a center for a jazz festival, and as the site of the Enoteca Italiana. This stunningly attractive enoteca specializes in Italian wines. It serves as more than just another wine shop and restaurant. A judging panel chose the more than 1,500 wines on display from more than 600 wineries to provide a representative selection of all Italian wines from all designated quality levels, from the highest quality level, DOCG, down to the simple but better table wines that most locals consume on a daily basis. Thus, visitors have the opportunity to taste wines of every quality level from all around Italy, and from every price level. The Enoteca also serves up a sumptuous sampling of local food to go with the vast wine list. Guests may choose a table in the stylishly furnished interior, or enjoy the ambience of the medieval fortress and park by tasting on the outdoor terrace. Make sure to visit the downstairs area for a spirited inspiration as to how to design your next wine cellar (although recreating such a cellar would assume you have no budget!).
Leaving the sights, tastes and culture of Siena might prove difficult if not for the very lovely wine country found just outside its environs. We have already discussed Chianti Classico, the historic and traditional wine region lying just north and east of Siena. We now turn our attention to the Colli Sensi, the largest of the eight Chianti DOCG wine regions, which lies south and southwest of Siena and comprises a vast landscape of rolling hills. Also known as the Siena Hills, this area offers a rural paradise for wine lovers who enjoy nature interspersed with history. One will drive past hills topped by woods, ancient towns or castles. And on the hillsides, and in the valleys, you will often find vineyards; mile after mile of them.
Within the Colli Senesi many winemakers produce a DOCG Chianti. Local rules call for certain blending formulas similar to the rules promulgated for the production of Chianti Classico discussed in the previous edition (see the May/June edition for details). Again, the final blend must include at least 75% of the Sangiovese grape. But within a sub-part of this area lies one of the most significant wine regions in all of Italy that produces arguably the boldest, richest wine in the country, Brunello di Montalcino. The winemakers from Piedmont who produce Barolo and Barbaresco would certainly take issue with that statement. Nonetheless, Brunello di Montalcino remains one of Italy’s most respected red wines. All Brunello, by definition, comes only from the area surrounding the small town of Montalcino, located in the Tuscan hills about 25 miles south of Siena. Its made entirely from a special clone of Sangiovese, known as Sangiovese Grosso. Unlike Chianti, there is no blending of other grapes.
While the town may not have an abundance of accommodations during the summer tourist season, many of the wineries found just below the actual village have rooms for rent. Touring here is similar to California in that many wineries do not require appointments before allowing visitors to taste wine. Simply pull up to the establishment and try your luck. Someone on the staff will almost invariably speak English. The guest may then inquire as to where to find a room for the night.
I employed this strategy on a recent visit and was rewarded by finding the Croce di Mezzo winery, where I enjoyed the wine and their nice accommodations. The grounds even had a full size swimming pool where one could cool off after a day of walking the vineyards and wine tasting. Located approximately 7.5 miles from Montalcino, with reasonable rooms and a very helpful staff, this winery provided a very decent bargain for exploring the region. As a bonus, they produce some nice wines at affordable prices. For more information check out their website at www.crocedimezzo.com or send them an email at crocedimezzo@crocedimezzo.com.
For those looking for luxury digs near Montalcino, regardless of price, try the elegant Castello de Velona. Originally built as a fortress in the 11th Century, the completely renovated Castello now boasts 23 sumptuous rooms, well appointed dining area, a library, courtyard, garden like grounds, and a large patio complete that has a swimming pool with a magnificent view. All perched atop a hill overlooking vineyards in the Val d’Orcia. Rooms begin at about 300 euros per night for a double.
East of Montalcino lies more of the Colli Senesi Chianti region and then another sub-zone producing an altogether different DOCG wine; the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. This wine too emanates from a special clone of the Sangiovese grape, known as Prognolo Gentile, which literally translated means “little prune.” Vineyards producing this wine lie scattered around the town of Montepulciano, another very scenic hilltop village worth a visit. The wine is reputed to have the bouquet of a Chianti but the body of a Brunello. Its certainly blended more like a Chianti, with producers often adding in other grapes besides Sangiovese to the final blend. The Sangiovese Prognolo Gentile grapes must constitute at least 75% of the final blend. The wine must age at least two years in oak, and three years if it is termed a riserva.
The Duomo makes for another compelling place to visit. The facade represents a magnificent example of Tuscan Gothic architecture, with its ornate and colorful marble carvings created in the 13th and 14th centuries. Step inside and marvel at the lavish, decorative interior. The cathedral also houses several important works of arts by such notable masters as Michelangelo, Donatello and Bernini.
The smiling staff at Croce di Mezzo’s tasting room...
Don’t confuse Vino Nobile di Montepuciano with wines made with the grape Montepulciano, notably Montepuciano d’Abruzzo. They are completely different wines.
This concludes our visit to the amazing region of Tuscany. Although we visited the more popular destinations within the region, the two-part article was by no means all inclusive in its coverage of Tuscany. We discussed only two of the eight Chianti regions (albeit the most notable), and did not touch upon the area along the coast known at Maremma, where the production of most of the popular Super Tuscans transpires. Maremma has the least population density in all of Italy. Often described as beautiful, remote and seldom visited, almost all concur that Maremma makes for another lovely destination. If planning a wine journey to Tuscany, these other places would certainly offer a “road less traveled” alternative for the adventurous tourist.
For more photographs from of the area just discussed turn to the next page of the site...
The village of Montalcino makes for an interesting place to visit. Loaded with stylish wine shops, a medieval fortress that now serves as a tasting room and a lookout for views of the halcyon Tuscan countryside stretching out far below the town, it provides an excellent base for exploring the region. It has some interesting history too. Its sturdy fortress provided the last bastion for Siena’s army against the Florentine invaders in the 16th Century.
Atypically for many world renown wines, the history of Brunello has relatively modern roots. It just received its DOCG status as recently as 1980. During the latter 19th Century, a local winemaker by the name of Clemente Santi began experimenting with different varieties of the Sangiovese grape. He wanted to find a grape that would thrive in the particular terroir available in and around the little hilltop village of Montalcino. His grandson Ferruccio Biondi-Santi followed in his footsteps. Together, they are largely credited for “inventing” Brunello de Montalcino by discovering the specific Sangiovese clone that grows well in the terroir around Montalcino. History bears witness to their astounding success, and Brunello has won appreciative accolades from wine lovers from all corners of the globe. Today, the Biondi-Santi family continues to produce some of the best Brunellos in the world.
Other excellent producers of Brunello include Altesino, Argiano, Casanova dei Neri (the featured winery of this edition), Il Poggione, La Fortuna, La Serena and Poggio Antico. In good vintage years from the better winemakers, Brunellos will often posses a fine bouquet, ripe fruit with graceful tannins and solid structure. These characteristics make Brunello a good candidate for long term aging. Typical flavors of a fine Brunello could include dark fruits such as black cherry or blackberry, and/or chocolate. The nose often carries hints of those flavors with the additional nuances of leather, vanilla and/or flowers, particularly violets. In good vintage years, Brunellos produced by the best wineries are not inexpensive wines to acquire. Typically the better wines run in excess of $75.00 per bottle.
While most wineries that produce Brunello run quite small, Castello Banfi represents an emphatic exception to the norm. This winery produces a good percentage of all the Brunello made in Italy. They also make a number of other Italian wines. Located nearby Montalcino, the estate proves well worth the visit. Besides tasting their wines, they have a fine osteria that makes a great place to have lunch. Getting to the estate from Montalcino takes about 30 minutes of driving through some of Tuscany’s loveliest countryside. Banfi has a few rooms available at the estate for luxury accommodation. For more information about a visit, go to their website at www.castellobanfi.com .
The terroir of this particular area contributes to the distinctive attributes of this grape. Temperate summers influenced by the proximity to the sea (only about 30 miles away) make the summers prove unusually long and dry, and generally warmer than the Chianti Classico region. Most modern vintners age Brunellos in French oak barrels, although some still rely on Slovenian oak. By DOCG rules, Brunello must age in wood for at least two years and not be released until at least four years after harvest.
Many vintners who produce Brunello also produce a wine called Rosso di Montalcino. The winemakers utilize Sangiovese grapes not quite good enough to make Brunello for this wine. As a consequence, Rosso di Montalcino is fruitier and more likely to be ready to thoroughly enjoy at a much younger age than a Brunello. During poor vintages winemakers often use the grapes that would normally go into Brunello to produce the Rosso di Montalcino, foregoing the making of Brunello altogether for that particular year. In such years, the Rosso di Montalcino can provide a good bargain for wine buyers. It always costs substantially less than Brunello.
Although there are some nice examples of this wine, winemaking here seems less consistent than with Brunello, and the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano has not received the same respect or international recognition of that more famous wine. The wine does not have the ageworthiness of a Brunello, and usually doesn’t obtain high ratings from critics. Still, in a good vintage and with the right winemaker, Vino Nobile can provide some excellent drinking at a relative bargain. Some of the better makers include Avignonesi, Poderi Boscarelli and Terre di Bindella. Avignonesi also produces an excellent Merlot.
On the dirt road to one of the better known Brunello di Montalcino estates, Argiano...
The village of Montalcino as seen from the vineyards below...
The winding road to Castello Banfi...
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