Wine Travel

Highway 29, Napa Valley, California...

Looking northeast across the Napa Valley in the fall...

  Vegas Wine News presents the first of a two-part visit to the famed Napa Valley…


    This edition features the first of a two-part travel expose’ on the Napa Valley, considered by most as the premier wine producing region in North America, with this edition focusing on a trip along the west side of the Valley along Highway 29.  In the next edition, we will visit the east side of the Valley by way of the Silverado Trail.


    First, some background about the region:  The Valley generally runs north to south. The distance between Napa, the southern most town in the Valley, and Calistoga, at the north end, is only approximately 30 miles.  The Mayacamas Mountain Range forms the west side of the Valley and features the peeks of  Mount Veeder, Spring Mountain, and Diamond Mountain, all renown wine growing areas.  The Vaca Mountain Range forms the eastern rim of the Valley, and contains the wine growing areas of Atlas Peak, the Chiles Valley and Howell Mountain. The Valley floor is only about 6 miles across at its widest point.   All this results in an area that, given its fame, is quite small, having only about 35,000 acres of vineyards.  If that seems like a lot, realize and that Sonoma County has more than 60,000 acres of vines, and that the French region of Bordeaux has approximately eight times as much vineyard acreage,


    Although an individual appellation itself, Napa Valley also contains 14 different sub-appellations, with each having certain terroir characteristics that make the wine produced there unique.  Terroir may be defined as all the natural forces that influence the growth of the grapes, such as soil composition, vineyard elevation and micro-climate.  Some of the Valley’s more notable appellations include Los Carneros, Yountville, Rutherford, Oakville, Stag’s Leap, Mount Veeder, Spring Mountain, Diamond Mountain and Howell Mountain.  In some vintages, the quality of wine will vary greatly depending upon what appellation the fruit comes from. For example, grapes grown in the higher elevations tend to ripen later, and become more vulnerable to late rains that my not affect grapes already harvested from vineyards lying at the Valley floor.


    Two roads that run roughly parallel to each other provide north-south transportation between Calistoga and Napa.  Highway 29 handles most of the traffic traveling along this north-south axis, and runs through all the small Valley towns, past many of the notable wineries, tasting rooms, and fabulous restaurants that have made this region a gourmet’s mecca.    The Silverado Trail provides a more rural route of touring the eastern side of the Valley.  As the visitor travels up and down the Valley, he will find several crossroads that travel across the Valley floor, connecting Highway 29 with the Silverado Trail.  These crossroads provide interesting diversions from the main thoroughfares, often traversing by stellar wine estates, vineyards and wine tasting opportunities.   Some of the more interesting crossroads include the Yountville Cross, Oakville Cross, Zinfandel Lane and Dunaweal Lane.


    Our trip up Highway 29 begins in the town that takes its name from the famed Valley, Napa.  By far the largest town in the Valley, Napa has a myriad of interesting attractions for the wine aficionado, and often serves as a base for tourists seeking to explore the region.  Wine and food lovers should visit Copia, The American Center for Wine, Food and the Arts, which houses a museum, garden, theater, classrooms and Julia Child’s famous restaurant, Julia’s Kitchen.  You will find Copia at 500 First Street.  Note that after the summer season Copia drastically reduces its hours.   Within short walking distance from Copia lies the Oxbow Public Markets, a new mini-mall dedicated to fresh food, wine, restaurants, and boutique shops, many catering to gourmets and things of interest to wine lovers.  The Bounty Hunter Wine Shop, at 975 First Street, specializes in difficult to find wines, and has lots of prospects for those seeking to taste truly unique wines.  It also makes a great place for an inexpensive place to dine.  Contact them for more information at (800)943-9464.


    The Napa Valley Wine Train bases its operation in Napa.  This train provides another alternative for seeing the region.  It cruises slowly up the Valley on a three hour journey, providing food paired with wine along the way.  Prices for the entire adventure (including food & wine) begin at about $90.00 per person.  To make reservations, call (800)427-4124.



Copia, site of food and wine studies and Julia Child’s

restaurant...

The modest exterior of the French Laundry in Yountville...

   If that seems a bit over-the-top (it is...!!!), Yountville offers several other excellent dining options, and all serve great food at a fraction of the cost of the French  Laundry.  Chef Thomas Keller (he of French Laundry fame…) heads the French restaurant Bouchon, and serves most entrees for less than $35.00. Bouchon also has an excellent bakery next to the main restaurant.  Jeanty’s Bistro (another French eatery) and The Napa Valley Grill (contemporary California cuisine) both serve great food, have excellent wine lists, and are less expensive than Bouchon. 


    Just north of Yountville and on the left side of Highway 29 sit two more remarkable restaurants.  You will first see Brix.  It has great food, a fine wine shop with hard to find wine at reasonable prices, and a patio with a sensational view of the vineyards with the Mayacama mountains rising up in the background.  Brix has its own garden to insure freshly grown produce, and a varied menu that runs between $25-$45 for entrees.  Mustards Restaurant lies just north of Brix.  This modest looking establishment has a great reputation, but unlike the French Laundry, very affordable prices.  It has an eclectic menu that serves things as simple as sandwiches, yet as exotic as duck, quail, rabbit, lamb and gnocchi.  The bar features informal dining, while the dining room has the traditional white linen tablecloths.   Mustards list almost all its entrees for well under $30.00.  Many a cooking book includes recipes taken from this Valley icon.  Contact Mustards at (707)944-2424.


    Continuing on the northern trek up the Highway, the traveler will soon arrive at Oakville.  Aside from numerous interesting wineries nearby (discussed later), Oakville has one major point of interest; the Oakville Market.  This small market on the right side of Highway 29 as you drive north has become a Valley favorite.  It offers an amazing array of gourmet food products, freshly made sandwiches, and a nice selection of local wines at reasonable prices.  It makes a great place to stop for lunch or stock up for that picnic lunch later in the day.

A Napa Valley classic, the Robert Mondavi Winery on Highway 29...

   Proceeding north from Rutherford you will next arrive at the town of St. Helena.  St. Helena takes second place in terms of town size within the Valley.  Highway 29 runs right through the middle of it.  The town has some nice shopping possibilities, with many of the stores situated on the Highway.  Coming into St. Helena you will see on your right the Italian themed restaurant Tra Vigne.  This place has a small vineyard facing the Highway, a lovely patio and stylish dining room, and a wine shop where the patron can taste and purchase wine. 


    Upon leaving town on the left side of the road, you should see two sights of interest.  First, the Beringer Estate Winery, housed in a huge Victorian mansion built in 1884, and second, the Culinary Institute of America, located almost next door to each other.  Beringer produces some truly legendary wines, such as their Private Reserve, a Cabernet Sauvignon.  You may taste it at the winery’s reserve tasting, along with some of their other fine wines, for a fee of $25.00.  The Culinary Institute took over the massive Greystone building, an architectural wonder, and specializes in the formal training of chefs.  However, they also have some interesting options for the tourist, including the Wine Spectator Greystone Restaurant, cooking demonstrations and food samplings for less than $20.00.  Call (707)967-1000 for more information.



    Just north of Oakville comes the small town of Rutherford, site of several nice opportunities for some wine tasting. Beaulieu Vineyards certainly qualifies as one of these, and with the ivy climbing up the walls of the winery, also makes a great place to take photos.  Beaulieu constitutes a longstanding, traditional Napa Valley Winery, and has produced such flagship wines Tapestry and Georges Latour.  It’s located on your right along Highway 29 as you enter Rutherford. A Napa Classic, Caymus, Vineyards, also makes its home here and produces Caymus Select, a prodigious Cabernet Sauvignon, and the popular white wine Conundrum.  Another interesting place in Rutherford is the Elizabeth Spencer Tasting Room, housed in a tiny brick house at 1165 Rutherford Road.  You will find it on your right as you enter the village, within easy walking distance of Beaulieu.  Caymus requires an appointment for a tasting, but Beaulieu and Spencer do not.  If you have made it this far without eating and feel the need, the Rutherford Grill, right on Highway 29 and next to Beaulieu Vineyards, has delicious food and tends to focus on red meat, creative salads, and a nice wine list.


 

     The French Laundry, located in Yountville at 6640 Washington Street, has attained status as one of America’s finest eateries, with chef Thomas Kellar at the helm.  Housed in an understated wooden building resembling a French farmhouse, the simple exterior belies the exquisite food and service found within its hallowed dining room.  Don’t plan on just walking in for a meal.  The restaurant requires reservations well in advance.  All this excellence comes at an exquisite price as well; plan on spending about $300.00 per meal…!!!

The Greystone Building houses the Culinary Institute of America...

    In this same area, situated on the right side of the highway, lies the new Alpha Omega Winery.  A newcomer to the Valley, this lovely winery has spared no expense in trying to break into the competitive market of producing top-notch wines.   It makes a great place to visit.  For all those reasons, I have featured it as this edition’s featured winery, so refer to that page for more information on Alpha Omega. 


    Next up on the journey north, and on the left hand side of the road, the visitor will encounter Provenance and Whitehall Lane, situated very close to one another.  Both produce delicious contemporary California Cabernet Sauvignon, marketed at a fair price.  Go in for a tasting and see if you agree.

Featured winery of the edition, Alpha Omega, as seen from Highway 29...

  As you head north, again keep watch on the left side of the road for two giant Italian style urns which mark of location of the new and exciting Del Dotto Winery.  This facility, built almost entirely underground, reminds one of a Venetian Palace.  The lavish décor gives a hint of the impressive wines produced at this estate.  Emphasizing red varietals, the estate has already garnered some worthy scores for its wines from critics.  A tour of the premises will take you through a large subterranean cave system where the barrels of aging wine wait for bottling.  It also includes a tasting of their premium wines.  Del Dotto charges $50.00 for the experience.  You must call ahead (707)256-3332 to make a reservation for the tour and tasting.   


    Located only a bit further north, and just about a mile south of St. Helena, you will see the V. Sattui winery on your right.  It has a colorful, reasonably priced tasting room, and some nice wines, but also a fully stocked delicatessen where the visitor can purchase some food for a picnic on the lovely grounds surrounding the estate.   If you like the wines after the tasting, you should probably buy them here.  V. Sattui sells its wines only at the winery.  This winery has won several “Winery of the Year” awards at the California State Fair.


    As previously mentioned, at the northern edge of St. Helena, you will see the Beringer Estate on your left.  As you leave St. Helena and drive north towards Calistoga you will see the Freemark Abbey Winery at the corner of where Lodi Lane meets Highway 29.  This little winery makes a convenient stop, and has produced wine for more than 100 years.  Try their flagship wine, the Bosche Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, and see what you think.


    Once again on the road heading north, you will come to the crossroad  Dunaweal Lane just before coming to the town of Calistoga.  By turning right you will soon see the signs for Sterling Vineyards.  Proceed down the canopy of trees that mark the estate’s driveway and you will arrive at a gondola reminiscent of a ski resort.  Take the gondola to the winery perched upon a hill that overlooks the entire southern part of the Valley.  Sterling is quite touristy, but also a must see for visitors.  They offer a self-guided tour of the facility, an impressive gift shop, a variety of tasting options, and, some of the best views in the region.  Sterling produces a wide variety of wines, with one of the most notable being the Three Palms Vineyard Merlot.


    After leaving Sterling, if you again turn right on Dunaweal Lane, you will immediately come to the Clos Pegase Winery on your left.  This magnificent facility combines wine with sculpture and creative architecture.  The owner searched the world to find an architect to construct the winery of his dream.  Bring your camera to record your impressions of how it all turned out. 


    After taking in Clos Pegase, the visitor may reach Calistoga by returning to Highway  29 and turning right, or going on to the Silverado Trail and turning left.  Either way, it’s just a few minutes to the town. 


   One should understand that this drive up Highway 29 only details a few of the many wineries situated along the way.  Some of the other notable wineries not commented on in detail include Trefethen, Opus One, Nickel & Nickel, Cakebread, Sequoia Grove, Peju, St. Supery, Grgich Hills, Franciscan, Heitz, Hall, Sutter Home, Louis Martini, Merryvale, Prager, St. Clement, Markham, and Twomey, to name just a few.  Many other wineries are located on the various crossroads, such as Silver Oak just off the Oakville Cross.  Still other adventures await visitors by heading up into the hills to visit the mountain wineries, by taking such detours as the Spring Mountain Road in St. Helena.  But those excursions are better left for future editions.


    I have two suggestions if contemplating a wine purchase while in the Valley.   First, if it’s a hot day (and there are many during the summer months) make sure to take precautions to keep the wine cool while in the car.  By no means store the wine in the trunk…!!!  Secondly, don’t bother buying wine from the winery unless it’s one not ordinarily found in retail stores.  Most of the time (with a few exceptions) the winery price exceeds the price you can find for that same bottle at your local wine shop.  Remember, however, that many of the small production wines will prove difficult, if not impossible, to find at most wine retailers.


    Finally, a tidbit of advice about finding lodging while visiting the region:  The Valley has a vast array of expensive boutique hotels, estates, and bed-and- breakfasts that will break the average traveler’s wallet for a one-night stay.  If money is no object, a visitor can easily find accommodation in any such place, so I will not mention those in this short article.  I will pass along information about three of the more affordable places to stay that have comparatively reasonable prices.  They are, as follows;  the Best Western Inn on Soscol Avenue in Napa, the Napa Valley Railway Inn in Yountville (707)944-2000, and the Mount View Hotel and Spa in Calistoga (800)816-6877.  All provide convenient, clean, well-appointed rooms (albeit basic) beginning at less than $200.00 per night.   That represents a good deal in the Napa Valley…


    Call the Napa Valley Chamber of Commerce at (707)226-7455 for more information on places to stay and for a calendar of special events taking place in the Valley throughout the year.  Have a great trip…


For further photographs of the Napa Valley go to the next page…

A sculpture with a sense of humor at Clos Pegase...

The tasting room at Del Dotto resembles a Venetian Palace...

    Napa has a number of quality restaurants.   Allegria, at 1026 First Street, telephone (707)254-2006, utilizes a converted bank building, and has soaring ceilings with soft lighting, giving it a romantic ambience.  It features a wide variety of Italian cuisine, with pasta dishes for less than $20.00 and meat entrees for less than $30.00.  It also has a decent wine list.  Angele, at 540 Main Street, telephone (707)252-8115, comes highly rated from the Zagat restaurant review.   It oozes charm and sits along the banks of the Napa River, and specializes in French cuisine.  Dinner averages about $40.00, before tip.  The bar and terrace offer about as lively a nightlife as one will find in the Valley.  Cole’s Chop House features prime Chicago beef in a stylish, contemporary

atmosphere.  It also has a great wine list.  Meals typically run about $40.00, before tip.  You will find Cole’s at 1122 Main Street, telephone (707)224-6328.  Of course, Julia’s Kitchen, mentioned above, garners praise from almost all food critics.  It features a blend of French/California cooking, and falls in the same price range as Cole’s and Angele.  Make reservations by calling ahead at (707)265-5700.


    As a wine growing area, the town of Napa has cooler temperatures than the northern Valley because of its closer proximity to San Pablo Bay (a northern extension of San Francisco Bay).  The famed Los Caneros wine region begins just south of Napa and extends southward to the Bay.  This cool area makes it an exception to the more inland, warmer parts of the Valley. The cooler weather also makes it difficult to ripen the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, and so the producers here usually concentrate on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.  Los Caneros has the reputation of producing the Valley’s best of those varitals.  Because Los Caneros basically runs east-west along the contours of the Bay, it actually forms the southern part of both Napa and Sonoma counties, and for this reason finds itself included in both appellations.  


    Leaving Napa and proceeding north (towards Calistoga) up Highway 29 will take you past a plethora of interesting towns, wineries and vineyards.  The first place of significance is Yountville, lying just a few miles from Napa and on the right side of the road.  Yountville has some nice accommodations, an interesting shopping mall, and proves most convenient for exploring the rest the region, due to its proximity to Highway 29 and a more central location than Napa. Amazingly, this tiny village also has some world-renown restaurants.   In fact, I call the area from Yountville to Rutherford “Gourmet Alley.”  Although most appropriate, the name has yet to catch on…


    The last town on the journey north, Calistoga lies about eight miles from St. Helena.  Both Highway 29 and the Silverado Trail both end up in this intriguing town.  Because of this, Calistoga represents the logical place to turn around and tour the opposite side of the Valley.  Thus, if you followed this route north on Highway 29, it would be a great idea to explore the eastern side of the Valley by going south on the Silverado Trail.  This town has a lot to offer, but I will save detailed discussion about it, and the Silverado Trail, for the next edition

    Now that we have learned some facts about some of the towns along Highway 29, let us regress and talk about the raison d’etre for most visitors making a trip to this wine lover’s paradise: wine touring.  The Napa Valley makes wine touring easy.  While a few wineries require an appointment before tasting, most wineries hold their doors open to the public daily, year-round, with normal hours of operation running between 11:00 a.m. until 4:00 p.m.  Days and hours of operation will vary with the individual establishment.  The staff usually has good knowledge about the wine produced, and most of the wineries have some type of gift store featuring products promoting the winery, books, art, wine-ware and, of course, wine.  Almost all have a tasting fee, which usually range between $5.00-$25.00. 


    Wine tasting represents one of the most enjoyable things about touring the area, and Highway 29 does not disappoint in that regard.   Beginning again in the southern part of the Valley, and working our way north again on Highway 29, I will discuss a few of the more interesting wineries along the way.  Unless otherwise mentioned, none of these establishments require any previous appointment for a tasting. 


    Just before you reach Yountville, you will encounter Domaine Chandon off California Road on your left.  A maker of sparkling wines, Domaine Chandon features a modern facility with a nice restaurant, and sprawling beautiful grounds with gardens, ponds and fountains.  It seems half winery and half nature retreat.  It also is one of the few wineries (the only one…???) that has its owns full service restaurant.  Watch for the road sign carefully to avoid driving by this intriguing stop.


    Just after Oakville, on your left, you will see the Robert Mondavi winery, with its classic archway beckoning visitors.  Mondavi represents a paradigm in Napa Valley winemaking and history.  It features several options for wine tasting and always has some interesting art in its gallery. Almost across the street from Mondavi sits the Turnbull Winery (actually just a few hundred feet to the north).  It has a beautiful photographic gallery of some of the world’s most recognizable faces, and specializes in delicious Cabernet Sauvignons.

    As you proceed north, just south of the town of Rutherford, you should see on your left a sign indicating the direction of the Rubicon Estate, set well back from the highway on its own private tree-lined road.  Francis Ford Coppola owns this magnificent property, which previously housed the old Inglenook estate.  It features a castle-like home/winemaking facility, incredible grounds, great photographic opportunities, and, yes, some decent wine.  Unfortunately, the Estate charges $25.00 per person just to enter the property.  The fee does include wine tasting, but non-drinkers receive no discount of the entry fee. 

The tree lined driveway of the Rubicon Estate...

The panoramic Napa Valley view from atop the Sterling Winery...