Travel

EXPLORING THE WINE COUNTRY OF CHILE...

The view of Santiago from the top of Cerro San Cristobel...

Welcome Contents Wine Happenings Restaurant News Wine for Sale Featured Winery Featured Person Travel Photos Blog Wine Art for Sale Links Contact Us

Please note that when visiting Chile, and especially the Chilean wine country, that this country takes tremendous pride in its local wines. So much so that to articulate any general pessimism about the wines might constitute a social faux pas. They seem always engaged in an unspoken but serious competition with their neighbor to the east, Argentina, over who produces the best vino. I experienced this competition immediately upon entering Chile. I crossed the border through the Andes, from Bariloche, Argentina, to Puerto Varas, Chile, a circuitous passage that entailed several rides in buses and on boats. The luggage had been off-loaded several times during the passage, and just after clearing customs across the Chilean border, I discovered that one of my bottles of wine from Argentina had broken in transit. Seeing my disappointment, a Chilean border guard tried to cheer me by advising that a broken bottle of wine from Argentina did not constitute a real loss because Chile had so many wines of superior quality.

While I do not necessarily agree with the guard’s biased opinion, Chile does have good reason to take pride in its wines. Wine production represents a very significant part of the Chilean economy. A mild Mediterranean climate, close proximity to the Pacific Ocean, soaring mountains, and porous soil provide an ideal geography for the cultivation of grapes. Small valleys feed down from the Andes towards the sea and offer micro-climates suitable for growing almost every conceivable grape. Chile’s wine industry takes full advantage of this terroir to produce a wide range of wines. As the industry grows, the quality of the top level wines has improved, and some of these wines have garnered high marks from international wine critics.

Almost any trip to Chile will begin with its capital, the lovely and lively city of Santiago. Fortunately for wine lovers, Santiago provides a centrally located base for the exploration of the Chilean wine country, as most of the best valleys producing quality wines fall within a day’s driving distance.

Santiago offers the visitor a host of pleasant surprises. The city has a plethora of parks, contrasting neighborhoods, fine-dining opportunities and eye-catching sights, that blend the old world with the new in symbiotic harmony.

The old town neighborhood of Bellavista has a bohemian feel, with its narrow streets, low-rise buildings, frenetic activity. Many low-key and finer restaurants coexist side by side here. The Como Agua Para Chocolate restaurant represents one of the finer eateries in town, and features a classical setting with a fountain, wrought iron trim, tile floors and a large bar. The main courses typically run $12.00-25.00. The famous Chilean poet, Pablo Neruda, used to hang out in this barrio. Bellavista’s main street Pio Nono leads to the funicular that transports passengers up the steep slopes of San Cristobal hill, where you can enjoy a panoramic view of the city and mountains beyond.

The streets along Avenida Providencia, in the barrio of the same name, showcase traditional neighborhoods, with smaller old style bars and restaurants, and outdoor cafes. Suecia Street provides the center of action here for nightlife and dining, although many of the other streets along Avenida Providencia also provide good opportunities for dining and after hours excitement. Although barrio Providencia is generally peaceful and safe, the Suecia area can appear a bit seedy at night. One of the more popular bars, the Liguria, has two locations in Providencia and a large cast of local and international patrons. All in all, Avenida Providencia offers a great place for a city walk with its wide, tree-lined streets.

In contrast, the area of Las Condes shocks the visitor with its modernity, cleanliness, stunning architecture and a myriad of beautiful restaurants. Two of the main streets of this area, Avenida Apoquindo and Avenida Isadora Goyenechea, team with stylish eateries and clubs for after hours entertainment. Wine lovers should stop by the large and upscale El Mundo del Vino wine shop located at 2391 Isadora Goyenechea to see a full array of Chilean wines and sample some of their tastings. La Vinoteca, located nearby on the same street, provides another good place to purchase a wide variety of Chilean wines. In the same neighborhood, Mosto, a wine bar located right outside the classy Parque Arauco shopping mall on Avenida Kennedy, has a good selection of wines and slick décor. The El Golf stop off the line one metro will put you within easy walking distance of this classy neighborhood.

Also located near the El Golf metro stop is the Ritz-Carlton Hotel. Although appearing somewhat staid from the street, it proves elegant ambience once the visitor steps through the doors. Situated within the hotel, the Wine 365 bar has ample wines to sample at Ritz-Carlton style prices. The Miguel Torres tapas bar, located very close to the Ritz, provides a less expensive alternative, with delicious dishes specially prepared to complement the wines, in a hip atmosphere.

Another very modern area known as the Borde Rio, in the barrio Viticura, features an array of upscale restaurants and nightclubs, frequented mostly by hip locals. Zanzibar, with a desert theme complete with faux Bedouin tents on the roof, has an elegant and exotic ambience, good food, and a decent wine selection. It doubles as a nightclub once the diner crowd departs.

Elsewhere, the central market provides some great people watching, informal dining, and a chance to purchase an abundance of locally caught fresh seafood and local produce. The downtown area features the colonial Plaza de Armas, and the impressive government buildings along Bernardo O’Higgins Avenue.

The city planners wisely linked most of these destinations with an efficient, clean and inexpensive metro system that rivals any in Europe. Although crime can occur anywhere, I always felt safe walking through any of these neighborhoods.

You may utilize the No. 4 metro line to reach one of the most notable wineries in all of Chile, Concha y Toro. Located in the Maipo Valley and within the Las Condes area of Santiago, this winery offers an easy day trip from the city center. Take the metro to the last station, Plaza de Puente Alto, emerge from the station and hail a cab for the now very short ride to the winery. You will need an appointment for your visit. Request a tour in English unless you have a good background in Spanish.

The tour will take you throughout the attractive grounds of the estate, into the local vineyards, the wine cellar, the tasting room, wine bar and finally, a shop where the visitor may purchase unique gifts and, of course, the wines of the estate. The tasting provides the opportunity to sample 3-4 of the wines produced by

Concha y Toro, including their finest wine, the cabernet based Don Melchoir. Depending on the vintage, critics regularly proclaim the Don Melchoir among the best wines produced in Chile. The stylish wine bar/restaurant features estate wines paired with nicely prepared appetizer sized dishes.

The tour will take you throughout the attractive grounds of the estate, into the local vineyards, the wine cellar, the tasting room, wine bar and finally, a shop where the visitor may purchase unique gifts and, of course, the wines of the estate. The tasting provides the opportunity to sample 3-4 of the wines produced by Concha y Toro, including their finest wine, the cabernet based Don Melchoir. Depending on the vintage, critics regularly proclaim the Don Melchoir among the best wines produced in Chile. The stylish wine bar/restaurant features estate wines paired with nicely prepared appetizer sized dishes.

Noted as the largest and best-known wine producer in Chile, Concha y Toro imports heavily into the Untied States. One of their entry level wines, the Casillero del Diablo, sold more than two million cases of wine in a recent vintage. The wines designated Casillero del Diablo comes in almost every varietal imaginable, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere, Syrah, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot. The grapes relied upon for the wine released as Terrunyo come from more select vines, and these wines also come in a plethora of varietals.

Always seeking innovation and expansion, in 1997, Concha y Toro partnered with Phillippe de Rothschild (of Chateau Mouton Rothschild fame) to produce the Almaviva brand wine. This wine relies mostly on Camenere grapes blended primarily with Cabernet Sauvignon, and often small additions of Cabernet Franc. It has its own technical team of winemakers, and even its own winery located close to the Concha y Toro facility. Don Melchoir remains the consistently best wine produced by the estate, and has garnered some impressive scores from Wine Spectator, Robert Parker, and Wine & Spirit Magazine. Wine Spectator designated the 2003 Don Melchoir as its number four wine of the year.

The visit to Concha y Tora costs about $12.00 and will take about four hours if you utilize the metro/taxi suggestion described above. The actual tour of the facility lasts about an hour, assuming you do not linger in the restaurant, which I highly recommend if you have worked up an appetite.

Traveling to the wine valleys beyond the Maipo proves a bit more complicated than the trip to Concha y Toro. Chile has a multitude of wine regions to explore relatively close to Santiago. The Casablanca and Colchagua valleys provide good examples of the varying micro-climates, produce very different wines from each other, and probably have the easiest access from the city. The problem in visiting these areas stems from the fact that no public transportation takes visitors to many (any?) of the individual wineries. Thus, one must make arrangements through a tour company, hire a private driver, or rent a car and just go for it.

The main highway to the coastal towns of Valparaiso and Vina del Mar runs directly through the Casablanca Valley. Valparaiso has a lot of history and provides the principal port for all of Chile. Vina del Mar has become a classy beach resort, loaded with people during the summer months. The trip from Santiago to the coast only takes about two hours by bus, so the Casablanca Valley makes a great stopover on the way. This area has become a boom for wine growers in recent years, with many Chilean vintners purchasing and cultivating large parcels of land. The close proximity to the sea and the sheltering coastal hills make the terroir nearly perfect for the production of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Some of the more prominent wineries located in this region include Mar, Carmen, Casa Lapostolle, Santa Ema, Calina, Santa Rita and Ventisquero. Do not confuse this branch of Casa Lopostolle with the site that produces big red wines located in our next destination, the Colchagua Valley.

The Rapel Valley actually includes the smaller valleys of Colchagua and Cachapoal. Located about 95 miles south of Santiago, a one day trip to this area will involve a lot of driving and leave little time to enjoy the rural area outside of the car or bus. Wine lovers who want to spend some quality time in the wine country should plan an overnight stay. This rings especially true if you have rented a car and can move at your own pace. Rural, quiet and serene, do not plan on much nightlife here after dinner. Road conditions on the drive to Colchagua are generally excellent; wide, paved highways for most of the trip, smaller paved roads once in the valley, and very little traffic once out of the Santiago metropolitan area. Road signage and finding people who speak English could present a challenge. If you do not speak Spanish, acquire a very good map before setting out on this journey.

My trip to Colchagua involved hiring a private driver from Santiago who knew the wineries and where to find them. We visited Montes and Vina Santa Cruz. All wineries have a charge for visits, which includes a complete tour of the facility and wine tasting. These costs usually range between $20.00-40.00. Each tour takes between 1-2 hours, so three winery visits would constitute a very full day, taking into consideration the driving time and a stop for lunch.

My driver, Rafael Lopez, was friendly, punctual and knowledgeable, but could not speak very much English. I ended up paying him $220.00 for the day, including charges for the winery visits and a tip. That may seem high, but it compares favorably with tourist agencies that will pre-plan your itinerary with a larger group. The group tour will require you to give up the freedom of visiting the wineries of your choice, and will force you into some type of bus with a group of strangers. This might prove fun, then again…maybe not. I traveled by myself, and I don’t believe Mr. Lopez’ charges would increase

that much if two people went instead of just one. You can reach Mr. Lopez for wine tours or other trips requiring a private car at 08-944-5391.

The town of Santa Cruz provides the center point for exploring this valley. It has a rural charm to go with its many small streets, some of which remain unpaved. Not too many sights in the town. It does have a museum that seems popular with tour groups and provides good historical background for the wine industry in the region. The Hotel Santa Cruz probably offers the most reliable lodging in town, as its guests come primarily from tour groups originating in Santiago. It has old world charm, a friendly staff and reasonable rates when compared to similar hotels in Santiago. Another lodging option in the area is the Vina La Playa, located some miles from the town of Santa Cruz in the midst of 500 acres of vineyards. This hotel seems rather upscale, as it has only 11 rooms, an onsite winery, restaurant, pool and tennis court. Contact them at their website, www.hotelvinalaplaya.com.

Another major town of the Colchagua valley is San Fernando, slightly more than 20 miles to the east of Santa Cruz. Casa Silva, a major winery, has the best lodging closest to this town. San Fernando also has a wine train that the visitor can ride to taste wines while getting a short train ride through part of the valley.

Many tour operators from Santiago arrange guided tours to the valley. These tours range anywhere from 1-3 days, and the cost varies greatly. I priced the tours and they seemed expensive. One can also opt to rent a car and do the trip independently. If you do choose this option, you should have a good map and speak some Spanish. Do not forget to make reservations at the wineries you intend to visit. They will generally not accommodate spontaneous visitors.

The wineries I visited proved quite impressive, in both their size, style, modernity, and infrastructure. In addition to its wine making facilities, Vina Santa Cruz also features a tribute to Chilean culture that includes reproductions of ancient Chilean art and housing, and some colonial period art treasures. The winery also boasts a chair lift that takes visitors to a hilltop overlooking the winery that affords spectacular views of the valley. The vintner, apparently fascinated by astronomy, has built an observatory atop this hill where on certain nights visitors can enjoy star gazing through the powerful telescope. Vina Santa Cruz produces a full complement of all varietal wines. I preferred the Cabernet Sauvignon.

Montes occupies a huge, modern facility that, again, produces a wide variety of wines. Like Concha y Tora, they export millions of bottles annually to the United States. The tour lasts about an hour and a half. You get a thorough visit with an English speaking guide, and have a nice wine tasting to finish off the tour. Guests ride in a tram up a steep hillside to take in a panoramic view of the valley below, and the Apalta Vineyard, where Montes cultivates its finest grapes. The winery touts the Montes Alpha M as its best offering.

Another Montes favorite, known as the Purple Angel, relies primarily on the camenere grape. Originally from the Bordeaux region of France, where it has been largely forgotten, Chilean vintners make wide use of this grape to produce wines that when done right in good vintages can produce age-worthy wines with complexity and heavy black fruit flavors. Robert Parker has scored some Chilean camenere as high as 97 points, but he describes it as a “fickle grape.” Apparently, it does better in Chile than it did in Europe.

If you seek clean, comfortable, friendly and convenient lodging while visiting Santiago, I definitely recommend the quaint bed and breakfast Villa Franca as a place to stay. The proprietor, Gloria, speaks perfect English. She and niece, Alejandra, will help you plan your excursions in town and to the various wineries. Centrally located in the barrio Providencia, right off the avenue of the same name, Villa Franca sits right around the corner from the national tourist agency. The room prices are quite affordable, and the neighborhood peaceful and quiet. It also has the advantage of a nearby metro stop that will connect you with all Santiago has to offer. Visit their website at info@vilafranca.cl for more information.

Chile makes a fine destination if you have interest in wine, outdoor recreational activity, such as hiking or fishing, or just want to explore a lovely country with friendly people. Once there, it will put much less of a dent in your wallet than a trip to Europe. Should you want to sample some Chilean wines paired with gourmet cuisine, check out the dinners hosted by the Envy Steakhouse this February by going to the Wine Happenings page in this website. For more photos from Chile, turn to the next page...

The Vina Santa Cruz estate, with the observatory clearly visible on the hill at the upper left...