Travel

Wine Bars of Paris...

Known as the “City of Lights”, Paris lives up to its name as celebratory illumination obscures the base of the Eiffel Tower...

Every true wine lover wants to visit, or certainly should want to visit, France. Many critics believe that despite ever increasing global competition to produce better wines, the top-notch French wines still hold the coveted title as the world’s finest. Of course, that opinion remains subjective and the target of spirited debate.

Regardless of one’s personal feelings about French wines, history leaves little doubt as to the fact that France’s indigenous grapes provided the cradle from which many of the world’s preferred varietals have emanated. French farmers grew and produced wines from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Grenache and Syrah grapes hundreds of years before these grapes traveled across the seas and became the staples of wine producers in other countries.

When taking a trip to France, every visit will most likely begin or end in Paris. While one of the few areas of France that does not garner fame for the actual production of the noble juice, the capital city and its people revel in the appreciation, evaluation, study and consumption of wine. While the Parisian visitor may buy wine at numerous high-end stores, and order it from virtually every restaurant in the city, with one notable exception this article focuses on the small, somewhat nondescript settings that specialize in serving wine to mostly local people. In most of these venues, wine takes priority over food.

Generally, these “wine bars” serve small portions of wine at reasonable prices. The establishments provide a respite for locals seeking a quiet place to talk or read a newspaper as the frenetic activity of Paris streaks by on the adjacent streets and sidewalks. Besides the wine, they also make for great places to people watch, and to meet some of the local people.

Surprisingly, although Paris has a large number of wine bars, a visitor will not find one on every corner. Unless you get somewhat lucky while walking through the streets, you actually have to make an effort to find a true Parisian wine bar. I frequented six different wine bars during my five day stay in Paris during the fall of 2007. What follows is a description of my impressions and experiences, and some information on how to locate these gems the next time you find yourself in Paris. The article concludes with a suggested walk to introduce the visitor to some of Paris’ most memorable sites.

Anyone who thinks French people are unfriendly needs to dispel that notion by dropping by the Bar Au Reve in the Montmartre district of Paris. The proprietors Elyette and Pierre run this establishment, which oozes with character. I arrived late one Saturday afternoon and Elyette, who has tended bar for about forty years, greeted me like a long lost relative. When she found I was American, she seemed genuinely happy and immediately switched our conversation to English. She gave me a tour of the tiny bar area. The Au Reve (“To the Dream” in English) has a stand-up bar, a few red-topped tables, and décor featuring hanging pots that probably pre-date World War I. Elyette takes special pride in part of that décor; an ancient phone (Paris’ first???) attached to a hallway wall. I don’t know Elyette’s true age, but she has the spirit and energy of a teenage cheerleader. While there, several locals came in, with dog in tow, and Elyette introduced me. Soon, we were all sipping wine and discussing places of interest in Paris. Bar Au Reve has a wine menu that consists of a chalkboard, which the owners routinely change.

The bar offers small glasses of French wines at very reasonable prices, and some appetizer type cheese, nut and dessert dishes that complement the wines. The Bar Au Reve keeps its doors open late, but is closed on Sundays and Mondays. It is located at 89 Rue Caulaincourt and Lamarch-Caulaincourt provides the nearest metro stop. If you find yourself walking from the Place du Tertre, the bar sits on the opposite side of the Montmartre hill from the steps leading up to Sacre Coeur. Telephone: 0146062087.

Inside Willie’s wine bar...

These establishments serve as both a wine store and wine bar. They usually have a limited food menu, and serve food only between certain hours. A taste for most glasses of wine runs between 1.5 to 4 euros. The server usually tags the glass with a brief description of the wine. This way a customer will not get confused should he or she orders more than one glass. Nicolas prices most of its food items between 7-10 euros. The Nicolas I visited was neat and clean, but lacked the charm of some of the smaller and more intimate wine bars discussed herein. Still, they have a good reputation and seem popular with locals

Willie’s Wine Bar qualifies as a true French classic, even though its current owner is English. It sits at 13 Rue de Petite Champs, near the Pyramides metro stop. The place features a tiny, worn, oak bar with obligatory stools that welcome the visitor upon entering, and a good quality restaurant that attracts a lively crowd of locals. It’s small, in the traditional sense of an old

Any visitor seeking out wine bars in Paris will probably find one of the Nicolas wine stores/bars. Nicolas has hundreds of locations throughout France, and dozens situated in Paris. The one I found was located near the Pompidou Center, at 59 Rue Reaumur. Reaumur/Sebastobal off line 4 provides the nearest metro stop.

fashioned French eatery. But the many windows give the place a sort of open feel, at least during the day. As with every wine bar I visited, the place has hard floors, which makes it loud when people are eating, talking and yes, drinking wine. Willie’s has a nice wine list, with many more bottle offerings than most of the other wine bars I visited. Once again, by Paris standards, the prices of the food and wine at Willie’s seem quite reasonable.

Willie’s has gained notoriety for its poster art. Each year, Willie’s commissions a different artist to create a poster which features the bar, wine and/or Paris in a creative way. Some of the previous posters line the walls of the bar. The posters make innovative souvenirs of Paris. You may order the posters from the website at willieswinebar.com. Telephone 0142620509. Willie’s provides a fun place to dine and/or sip wine with a group of friends.

I found La Patache while trying to visit the better known wine bar Le Verre Vole’ located right across the street, but although the doors were open and people were inside, they announced they were not serving wine until after 5:00 p.m. A bit snooty and…what a buzz kill…!!! The folks at Patache welcomed me with open arms. Located at 60 Rue de Lancry, very close to the St. Martin canal, a visitor could accurately describe La Patache as a true hole in the wall. The homey, run-down feel of the place contributes to a sort of cozy ambience. It comes equipped with a stove in the corner to warm visitors on cool Paris nights. Extremely informal and with mostly locals for customers, it seems to typify the traditional Parisian wine bar. It has a miniscule bar and a few old wooden tables where guests may order inexpensive wines, small food plates, and some excellent desserts.

I have included it as a wine bar because in addition to retail sales, Lavinia also presents a good opportunity to taste a wide selection of different wines. They have a modern wine preservation system that allows open bottles to remain fresh for customers’ sampling. Fortunately, the tasting options offer wines in a much more reasonable price range than the 1945 Mouton! You may choose tasting of some wines for less than 3 euros. You may also dine at a very well appointed restaurant on the second floor. This restaurant has a very complete menu, and the staff will help you pair available wines with the food to enhance your culinary experience. The restaurant serves lunch only, and closes daily at 3:00 p.m. You may also purchase less well-known French wines, after tasting them, at somewhat reasonable prices. Situated within easy walking distance of the famous Galleries Lafayette shopping mall, you should give it a try if you enjoy wine and find yourself in the neighborhood.

To reach Lavinia. use the Madeliene or Opera metro stops. Check out their website at www.lavinia.fr for more information, or call the store direct at 33-14-297-2020;

In the opinion of this humble writer, Paris takes the prize for the most beautiful city on earth. Once in Paris, the city should provide sufficient inspiration to explore its multitude of sites. A visit to a Parisian wine bar should help enhance a visit to this incredible metropolis by giving the visitor a chance to sample some local wines surrounded by local people at reasonable prices. They provide a cultural experience you will usually not find on a group tour.

To help the reader enjoy Paris more fully while taking a break from sipping wine, I will suggest a walk through Paris that will allow the visitor to enjoy many of its most magnificent venues in a single day. The walk covers about four miles and can take between 2-4 hours, depending on how often you become distracted by the scenery (a serious temptation). I prefer walking in Paris when the weather cooperates, and saving museum experiences for rainy days. When the sun shines in Paris, I find it difficult to stay indoors. Although the suggested walk is quite straightforward, you should take a good street map of Paris with you to avoid any confusion.

Begin on the “left bank”, at the Ecole Militaire metro stop, and walk towards the Champ de Mars (which means, literally, field of war). This is a large park that lies adjacent to the Eiffel Tower. Upon reaching the park, turn right and marvel at the view of the Tower as you approach it from the south. I suggest leaving a trip to the top (a must) for another day, as it can sometimes take several hours to take that inviting detour. Continue walking under the Tower and you will see a bridge that will take you across the Seine River.

circle sits the Arc of Triomphe. Although you may choose to climb to the top of the Arc, I again suggest saving that for a later date.

From the Arc, proceed down the glamorous Champs-Elysees. It dead-ends right into the arch of the Arc, and to the right as you approach the turning circle walking from Avenue Kleber. Enjoy all the sights of this world famous boulevard. You may indulge in one of the many restaurants you pass along the way. Just realize that the prices along the Champs, for everything from food to souvenirs, represent some of the most expensive in Paris. I found it a better option to postpone eating until I reached the informal food stalls in the park-like area after walking past the shops along the Champs, but before reaching the Place de la Concorde. Some of these stalls offer freshly made crepes that I craved. At about $6.00, these crepes made for the best lunch deal in Paris! These places generally do not remain open during winter months.

Strolling down the Champs-Elysees from the Arc of Triomphe, the visitor will eventually arrive at the Place de la Concorde, the main turning circle in all of Paris. The Place features a towering obelisk, brought back by Napoleon from his misadventures in Egypt, and two gorgeous fountains. Adjacent to the Place de la Concorde, the visitor will find the National Assembly, the Hotel Crillon and the giant Ferris wheel marking the entry to the Tuileries Garden. The Hotel Crillon hosts the winner of the Tour de France bicycle race each year. The winning rider gets to fly the flag of his choice above the Hotel for several days after his victory. After several of his victories in the Tour, Lance Armstrong chose to fly the Texas state flag instead of the American flag. Check out the fountains, the intricately designed light posts and the Parisian traffic whisking by from the center of the Place before walking across to the giant Ferris wheel and the entrance to the Tuileries garden.

It’s located near the traditional Paris Opera district (not the new opera in the Bastille area), and Bourse provides the closest metro stop. Telephone, 0142600712.

Lavinia, located at 3 Boulevard de la Madeliene represents the major exception to the typical Parisian wine bar. Walking into the sleek Lavinia store, the customer is greeted by a massive cluster of grapes suspended from the towering ceiling. After visiting some of the tiny more traditional wine bars of Paris, one can easily become overwhelmed at the enormity of this place. Lavinia is a huge, modern, two story (plus a large basement) mega-store that retails a vast amount of wine from every corner of the globe. Naturally, their best collections emphasize French wines, and they have impressive vertical selections of all the great ones, including Petrus, Mouton, Latour, Lafite, Margaux, and--well, you get the idea. The prices on the prestigious bottles can take one’s breath away. For example, one 750 liter bottle of 1945 Mouton Rothschild commands a staggering price tag of 22,000 euros. Allowing for conversion to dollars, that’s approximately $36,000…!!!

Once you cross the bridge, you will find yourself on the “right bank”, and at the base of some impressive art deco buildings known as the Trocadero, built in 1937 for an international exhibition. Climb the steps of the Trocadero, marvel at the views of the Tower, and find Avenue Kleber (check your map, as the street sort of dead ends into the top of the Trocadero). Take the time to inspect the architecture of the many upscale buildings as you walk up this grand, tree lined, avenue. Avenue Kleber will lead you directly to a grand turning circle for cars. In the middle of the

Lavinia displays its finer wines in the store’s cellar..

You can get a spectacular view of all of Paris by riding the Ferris wheel. If the line is not too long, it provides a nice break from the trek. The ride gives you a couple complete cycles and allows you to sit for about 10 minutes as you gaze at the city below. As you leave the Ferris wheel and enter the Tuileries, note the many types of sculpture on display in the gardens. It has everything from the very traditional to the ultra hip. On the walk you will pass the large reflecting pond and the little Arc of Triomphe, built to commemorate the victories of Napoleon. The garden has several outdoor eating establishments where you may take a break while enjoying nature in the big city.

The Nicolas wine bar mentioned above...

By consulting your map, you may wish to stop by the lovely gardens of the Royal Palace. These gardens are located just outside the Tuileries and to your left as you walk from the Place de la Concorde towards the Louvre. They provide a great place to have a picnic if you feel the urge to stage an informal alfresco luncheon. If you continue walking through the Tuileries, you will soon arrive at the famed Louvre museum. Touring the museum can take anywhere from 4 hours to a lifetime, so unless you have a boundless supply of remaining energy, I suggest putting off that adventure for a later date.

This would conclude my suggested walk. If you still feel inspired for further hiking, you can easily reach Notre Dame by walking from the Louvre to the Seine, turning left and walking along the sidewalk above the river until you spot the grand cathedral on the Isle de Cite’. Use your map…!!!

To provide a small preview on the sites that will greet you while walking the streets of Paris, the first three photographs depicted in the slide show following this article feature the exterior of some of the wine bars mentioned above, and the next 18 photographs depict some of the sights mentioned on my proposed trek. Of course, Paris offers many more “must see” sights than included in “the walk”, and I have attached photographs of a few of these other sights towards the end of the slide show.

If you want some immersion in French culture without signing up for a group tour, you should consult the website of Francoise Duffau at http://francoise.duffau.neuf.fr or email her at francoise.duffau@hotmail.com Francoise has lived in Paris and New York City for years, and specializes in teaching French to English speaking visitors to Paris. She can teach you the basics, or help you brush-up your previous knowledge of the language in a one on one learning experience. She also leads short personalized walking tours to certain parts of Paris. Her usual rates run 35 euros per hour. I took a two hour lesson/walking tour from Francoise and truly enjoyed the experience.

For more information about the wine bars of Paris, consult the interesting website www.wineterroirs.com and try to pick up the small, informative book entitled “Authentic Bistros of Paris” by Francois Thomzeau and Sylvain Ageorges. Ellyette of the bar Au Reve suggested this book to me while in Paris, and I found it quite informative. For a unique souvenir of your Parisian trip, have each bar you visit stamp the book with business stamp of the establishment required under French law.

Have a blast in Paris…

A tour boat passes under the Pont Neuf, the oldest bridge in Paris that leads to the isle de Cite’, site of the Cathedral of Notre Dame de Paris...

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In an adjacent room, Legrand has a rather large and well-stocked room where they market many gourmet food products, along with the large selection of wines. Sales people, apparently in some type of uniform, will help you choose the perfect bottle. On the day I visited, they all seemed to speak near perfect English. The bar actually has two entrances, one inside the small chic Gallerie Vivienne shopping mall (at 4 Rue des Petits Champs), and one located at 1 Rue de la Banque. Legrand makes a great place to sip a glass of wine in a quiet and stylish milieu when one needs a break from the Paris crowds.

I got the impression that the joint picks up at night, as they sell some nice expressos and a lot of deserts. But their proclaimed specialty remains the wine list. Most small glasses go for less than 6 euros. Good luck on finding a glass of wine for that price in a full service restaurant in Paris. The owner has a reputation as a grumpy old man, but on the day I visited, a very polite younger guy, probably a student, provided friendly service and helpful hints on the sights of the neighborhood. The nearby St. Martin canal makes an interesting place to walk. After the wine, I walked along the canal, which mostly runs underground, to the Place de Bastille, known for its truly rocking nightlife, including some fun restaurant possibilities. The walk takes about one half-hour.

Lucien Legrand Filles & Fils has an elegant ambience that makes it unique from the informal wine bars previously mentioned. A lovely U-shaped bar provides the focal point for the bar area of this upscale “cave”, as the French would say. Floor to ceiling racks fashioned from dark wood and fully stocked with wine surround the bar area. Legrand has a formidable selection of wines, from the inexpensive to the outrageous. You may order many wines by the bottle, glass or taste. They also serve nice but smallish meals in the bar area. It serves mostly a business crowd at lunch, with the occasional tourist or shopper popping in for a bite or glass of wine.