Travel

next page...Wine_Blog__-__vegaswinenews.com/Wine_Blog__-__vegaswinenews.com.htmlWine_Blog__-__vegaswinenews.com/Wine_Blog__-__vegaswinenews.com.htmlshapeimage_1_link_0
previous page...Featured_Person__-__vegaswinenews.com.htmlFeatured_Person__-__vegaswinenews.com.htmlshapeimage_2_link_0
 

This month Vegas Wine News begins a two part journey to one of the paradigms of American winemaking; the wine country of Sonoma County, California.  This first part of the trip explores southern Sonoma County, and envisions a drive up from San Francisco.  The drive will take us to the Plaza of Sonoma, and then from there up through the vineyards and wineries of the Sonoma Valley along Highway 12, and ending at the town of Santa Rosa.  Part two of this article will appear in next month’s newsletter, and will feature some of the highlights of northern Sonoma County. 


        First some general information about the Sonoma wine country.  More than twice the size of its famous neighbor to the east, the Sonoma vineyards accordingly produce a much greater volume of grapes than Napa County.  More important, because of its proximity to the coast, Sonoma provides more varied micro-climates for growing grapes, giving the area more potential for different varietal crops.  The area stretches from of San Pablo Bay in the south all the way past the little town of Cloverdale to the north, a distance of roughly 65 miles.  The Pacific ocean forms the western boundary of the area, and it runs east until reaching the Napa Valley, approximately 40 miles inland.  Sonoma has 12 designated American Viticulture Areas (AVAs).   It encompasses some of the most notable wine growing areas in the world, including the Alexander Valley, Dry Creek Valley, Russian River Valley, Caneros, Chalk Hill, Knights Valley, Green Valley and Sonoma Valley.  

   
    Our trip takes us north on Highway 12 through the Sonoma Valley, a relatively small part of total Sonoma wine country, but probably the best known of the AVAs.    Getting to the starting point of the

    The Castle Winery near the Plaza square...

trip from San Francisco, the Sonoma Plaza, makes for a beautiful drive.  Head north from the City on Highway 101 and cross the Golden Gate Bridge.  If you have the time, stop in the little town of Sausalito for breakfast or coffee, which lies just north of the Golden Gate.  It provides quaint atmosphere and lovely views of the City by the Bay.   Just follow the signs immediately after crossing the Bridge.

Afterward, continue to proceed north on 101 to Highway 37 and take it east (right), towards Napa.  As you cruise along this rustic road San Pablo Bay lies just out of sight to your right, and you will be driving through the Sonoma side of an area known as Caneros, most famous for its Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes.  Caneros’ close proximity to San Pablo Bay provides the cool climate  required to produce high quality in those two grape varietals.  When you reach Highway 121 turn left (north).  This will take you past the large and stunning Viansa winery on your right.  You will next turn right on Highway 12, which will take you into the Sonoma Plaza.  The entire journey should take about one hour after crossing the Golden Gate (assuming you do no stop in Sausalito).


        The Plaza is essentially a large park in the shape of a square.  The historic  and charming Sonoma City Hall sits in the center of Plaza.  The streets lining the square have some interesting shops, hotels, wine bars and eateries.  Take some time to explore this area and its shops before setting off for the wineries. The Sonoma Cheese Factory lies at the north end of the Plaza, and makes an excellent place to stock up for goodies for that special picnic to enjoy later on while wine tasting.  Besides having a bountiful selection of cheese, this shop also prepares freshly made sandwiches to order, and offers other gourmet foods suitable for pairing with wines you will taste throughout the Sonoma Valley.  My favorite wine tasting venue located right near the square is Castle Wines.  Situated in what seems like a small cottage, Castle offers a full line-up of boutique style, small production wines at reasonable prices.  The friendly staff sometimes give out free tasting passes to some the wineries located on Highway 12, and will provide other useful information about places of interest along the Highway.


        To get to Highway 12 from the Plaza, go west on Napa Street and follow the signs.  You will begin passing wineries within 10 minutes.  Some of the better known wineries located right on Highway 12 include Arrowood, B.R. Cohn, Imagery Estate, Benziger, Mayo Family Vineyards, Kunde Estate, Kenwood, Blackstone, Chateau St. Jean, Landmark, St. Francis and Ledson.  All have tasting rooms and welcome visitors without a prior appointment.  Unfortunately, gone are the days of the long-held Sonoma tradition of the free wine tasting.  Although the fees for tasting are generally less than those charged in the Napa Valley, almost all wineries along Highway 12 charge between $5.00-10.00 for a basic tasting.  The good news; almost all wineries open to the public have tables where visitors can taste wine and enjoy an outdoor picnic while  taking in the beauty of the wine country.


        One of the first wineries that you will come to as you travel north is the Imagery Estate.  Associated with Benziger winery across the street, the Imagery Estate has a lovely modern facility that produces many different wines with very unique blends.  Each wine comes with a miniature work of art: a different artist prepares a different colorful label for each wine.  The labels change each year for every wine produced.  With the colorful labels, the bottles make for an interesting display in any cellar.  A gift shop on the premises sells some of the current and past labels as poster artwork.  I have never seen any Imagery wine sold to the public off the estate, so if you enjoy the wine, buy it here. 

 

        One of the more notable wineries along this road includes the lovely grounds of Chateau St. Jean. It has beautiful grounds with red tiled roof buildings surrounded by expansive vineyards.  It seems more like a huge Spanish style hacienda than a French chateau.  They also make great wine,

The perfect growing climate makes for botanist’s dream; a 7 foot agave plant at Chateau St. Jean...

highlighted by their “Cinq Cepages”, a blend of Bordeaux grapes featuring mostly Cabernet Sauvignon.  The Cinq Cepages usually receives great reviews from wine critics, and the 1999 vintage won the second place “wine of the year” award from Wine Spectator.  You may taste it, along with other high quality selections, at the winery by purchasing a premium tasting for $25.00.   They also provide less expensive tastings for the more basic wines.

    Proceeding north after visiting Chateau St. Jean you will find St. Francis Winery.  This property affords great views of the surrounding Sonoma hills from its modern tasting room.  Tastings begin at $5.00 and get more expensive as the quality of wine tasted improves.   The tasting room prides itself on its friendly helpful staff.  Because of its notoriety, the tasting room can become quite crowded.  As with all the wineries, the middle of the week provides the best time for a visit.


    Just north of St. Francis lies the stunning Ledson Estate.  Arguably the most distinctive building in the entire California wine country, the impressive Chateau-like building sits back off the road a bit, but remains clearly visible on your right as you proceed north on Highway 12.  Save some time to visit this incredible edifice.  Once inside, you will find several tasting rooms.  They all offer the same wines, so base your choice of rooms by its aesthetic appeal or the one with fewest people.  They have an assortment of tasting options, and produce most varietals associated with the area.  Although wineries normally do not present the best opportunities to purchase wines,  Ledson does not customarily market wines to the public, so if you fancy some of their offerings, a purchase here would make sense.  On weekends, they sometimes have entertainment on the grounds.  The day I visited, a

The statue of St. Francis, namesake of the winery...

lively jazz band performed for people picnicking under the massive oak trees.  Ledson can become crowded on the weekends, as many tour groups stop at this impressive property.

    Ledson represents one of the last wineries along Highway 12 as you proceed north through the Sonoma Valley.  You will soon see signs directing you to Santa Rosa.  There, you can reach Highway 101 and return to the Bay area.  Better yet, find accommodations and prepare yourself for another day of exploration and wine tasting the following morning.  Santa Rosa has several nice hotels right near Highway 101, including the Hilton Sonoma Wine Country Hotel and the Fountaingrove Inn.  Check both establishments out on
www.hotels.com.  The latter has a dining room that features a stunning display of local wines.  The town of Healdsburg offers another good choice for spending the night.  This enchanting little wine town lies only 12 miles north of Santa Rosa on Highway 101, and provides a great base for touring the wineries in northern Sonoma.  Next month, Vegas Wine News will travel to northern Sonoma and visit some of the many wineries along Westside Drive and Dry Creek Road. 


                 The Ledson Estate as seen from Highway 12...

   

 

 

JOURNEY TO THE SONOMA WINE COUNTRY...

The Sonoma City Hall sits in the center of the park-like Plaza...