Wine Travel

Campania, Italy...

Positano sits like a fairy tale village beside the sea on Italy’s Amalfi Coast...

The Campania region of southern Italy has long charmed visitors with its fabled history and picturesque seaside towns clinging to walls of rock above the pounding sea below. But although the locals (as with almost all Italians) love wine, the area has not developed the international reputation of Piedmont or Tuscany for producing prodigious wines. Given that, a trip to Campania can still prove rewarding for the wine enthusiast, especially as an adjunct to visiting the better-known Italian wine regions.

Campania features more than 100 miles of dramatic shoreline running along the southwest coast of Italy, with the port of Naples located in the northern part of the region. It extends inland from the coast for about 25-50 miles, depending on where you measure the distance. Naples, the principal city and gateway to the region, lies about 110 miles south of Rome, which translates into a train ride of about two hours. The ride costs between 20-30 euros each way, depending on whether you ride first or second-class.

Campania offers the wine lover two intriguing destinations. The first is to explore the interior where most of the wine production actually takes place. Virtually all of the area’s better wineries are located in this area. The Amalfi Coast presents the second possible destination, and almost all visitors to the region choose this alternative because of the astounding beauty afforded by its small coastal towns and the easy-going lifestyle associated with the warm sea and people enjoying the outdoors in a near-perfect climate.

While tempted to visit the interior, this writer went along with the logic of the common tourist and chose the Amalfi Coast during a recent trip limited by time and money. For that reason, this article focuses mainly on the wine experiences offered by that seaside area.

First, some background on the wines of Campania: Wine production began here some 3,000 years ago, introduced by the ancient Greeks who farmed the region. As the Roman Empire rose and began to flex its muscles, they greatly increased the acreage of the vineyards and the volume of wine made, which established Campania as the center of wine production for the most powerful civilization in the history of western culture. Fast forward to the year 79 AD, and the eruption of Vesuvius. That calamity incinerated significant vineyard area and destroyed the harbor of Pompeii, which had served as the primary commercial harbor for shipping wine throughout the Empire. With that devastation, the Empire began to expand its wine production to other regions.

Today, Campania produces only three DOCG wines, the designation representing only the best quality Italian wines. In an area known mostly for red wine, it seems odd that two of the three DOCG wines are white. Both hold little notoriety outside of Italy. One of the whites, Greco de Tufo, reputedly has very unique characteristics, including a fragrant apple/citrus bouquet accompanied by loads of minerality mixed with almonds to the taste. The other white wine, Fiano d’Avellino represents another complex white with flavors of peaches and nuts.

The wine garnering most international attention comes from the region’s most notable red grape, Aglianico. The Aglianico grown in the areas most famed vineyards of Taurasi have attained the DOCG status. The best Aglianico wines have a deep, almost black, burgundy color, with a strong bouquet of cherry, violets and sometimes hints of spices and/or leather. All full-bodied wines, the best have proven quite structured and age worthy. Many do not reach their full potential for more than five years after bottling.

All the high quality wines of Campania come from the countryside surrounding the towns of Avellino and Benevento, about 25 to 35 miles inland from Naples, respectively. Although the town of Avellino seems quite modern by Campania standards, the interior generally remains for the most part very rural. Some of the better-known wineries here include Feudi, di San Gregorio, Mastroberardino, Cantine Antonio Caggiano, Terredora and Salvatore Molettieri.

Today many of the best known winemakers make some efforts to tone down the powerful Aglianico grape by blending it with some of the better known French varietals, such as Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon. The results can prove impressive. Blending gives the finished product a more modern style, in that while retaining its traditional full-bodied structure, the wines become more approachable. Aglianico purists probably cringe at the thought. Nevertheless, the wines have received some impressive reviews from noted wine critics such as Robert Parker and Wine Spectator Magazine.

Feudi de San Gregorio probably represents Campania’s best-known wine producer. The property welcomes visitors, and when I spoke to their liaison while contemplating a visit, she assured me that the winery was only an hour away from Naples by rental car. Their beautiful, ultra modern facility belies the rural land that surrounds it. Feudi makes a full complement of wines, including all the DOCG wines of the region, together with many local favorites that have not attained that premier status in Italy. Should you consider a visit to Feudi while in Campania, you may contact them by email at feudi@feudi.it, or by telephone at 011-39-0825-986611 (from the USA).

If you do decide to travel to this part of Campania to check out the wineries in person, I suggest spending a night at one of the many “Agriturismo” accommodations. The Agriturismo concept has re-invigorated rural tourism in Italy in recent years. Generally, it provides quality accommodations in farming areas by way of refurbished county estates. Of particular interest to wine lovers, many wineries, such as Cantine Antonio Caggiano, have set up a few nicely renovated rooms in their estates for visitors to spend the night. Prices and quality vary, but I have deeply enjoyed my personal experiences staying at these places in Italy. To fully appreciate the Agriturismo experience, a guest should have a rental car, as they are often located far away from any reliable public transportation.

The Amalfi coast takes the jewel in the crown of Campania tourism, and includes the towns of Positano, Praiano, Ravello, Amalfi, Atrani and Maiori, together with some smaller villages sandwiched in along the way. The town of Sorrento provides a convenient jumping off place for visiting this amazing region, and gives the visitor a taste of what to expect. Sorrento is a bit larger than the towns along the Amalfi Coast, and with that size comes more shopping, restaurant and nightlife opportunities than one will find once on the famous coastline.

Sorrento has become a favorite with tourists from the United Kingdom and Ireland, and so many locals speak good English. It also features good travel connections via the Circumvesuvia train line to the ruins of Pompeii and Naples, and boats to the nearby Island of Capri. Remember, the train is inexpensive but has many stops, and one should consult the schedule if you plan to make any travel connections on time. As a added plus, Sorrento has a good number of interesting wine shops that mainly sell wine produced in Campania.

Sorrento also has a myriad of travel options for reaching the Amalfi Coast, both by frequent buses and regular boat service. Both means of transportation provide great views at reasonable prices, but in my opinion, the bus trip along the narrow road to the coast offers the more incredible views and avoids the steep steps from the town to the harbor (or the even steeper taxi charges). The buses leave from a stop directly in front of Sorrento’s only train station, at the final stop of the Circumvesuvia line.

Crazy traffic along the Amalfi Coast...

Although the coast does not produce any notable wines, the locals still fully appreciate the noble juice, regularly consuming it with every dinner. Mostly, stores market local Campania wines, and while restaurants will feature wines from all over Italy, they too seem to focus mostly on the regional products. Every Amalfi Coast town I visited had some exceptional enotecas (as Italians describe wine retailers), and I will discuss some of these when describing the individual towns.

Traveling south to the Amalfi Coast from Sorrento, the visitor will first arrive at Positano. This little town lies jammed between the blue sea and steep cliffs, and consistently amazes first time visitors. The famous author John Steinbeck became one of the first American celebrities taken by its charms, and offered the following impression: “Positano bites deep. It is a place that isn’t quite real when you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone…”

A viable strategy for visiting Positano is to take the bus to the stop above the town and enjoy the views, steep stairs and narrow shopping streets that lead down to the oceanfront. Spend the day walking, shopping, dining and/or going to the beach, and then depart by boat from the convenient port to Sorrento, the other towns along the coast, or to the island of Capri. Everyone should see this place from both the road above and the sea, but the walk up the steep hill to the bus stop may prove a bit challenging at the end of the day. The boats depart frequently during the day in summer months, so you need not worry about reservations.

Some of the routine highlights of Positano include the small but prominent church built near the harbor, lots of nice restaurants with sensational views, many retail shops running the full gamut of quality, a myriad of water related activities, and unparalleled photographic opportunities. Accommodation in Positano ranges from basic to extravagant, and generally costs more than the other towns along the coast.

The village of Amalfi gives its name to the entire coastline, and represents the largest of the seaside towns. Once a major sea power in the Mediterranean, Amalfi’s business now involves mostly tourism and some local fishing. The town centers around the Piazza del Duomo and its Ninth Century San Andreas Cathedral. The remains of St. Andrews are reputedly interred within the church. The unique cathedral dominates the town square from atop a wide set of steps. A statue of the Saint graces the center of the piazza and spews cold drinkable water for pedestrians.

The Sirenuse sets the paradigm for Positano’s classiest hotel. An Italian nobleman converted this estate into a hotel in 1951. John Steinbeck stayed here when in Positano, and fell in love with the place. Unfortunately, double rooms begin at about $800.00 per night during the high season, putting it out of most tourists’ budgets. Although its stellar prices limit those who can stay here, the Sirenuse does allow visitors and is certainly worth a stop to enjoy the views and perhaps a cocktail while taking in a sunset from the bar overlooking the sea.

The Enogastronomia Deli took my prize for the best wine shop in Positano. It sits along Via Mulini, the main footpath leading up from the town to the bus stop, at about the halfway point. It features wine tasting and offers an excellent selection of local wines for sale. Large by Italian standards, it has a charming interior and helpful staff, many of whom speak English. It also serves as a delicatessen, selling snacks, beverages and gelato (Italian ice cream).

From the piazza, take the main walking street away from the sea and pass a plethora of interesting shops and restaurants. Amalfi features several nice beaches for swimming and sunbathing, some water sports (such as kayak rentals), and numerous hiking possibilities to explore the nearby towns and stunning mountainous coastline. As you walk south along the shoreline, a tree-covered promenade provides a great place to people watch, enjoy a sunset, or have a bite by the sea. The town also makes an excellent base for touring the entire area, as it has convenient travel connections and affordable accommodations.

Just a word about those travel connections: Allow yourself ample time for travel between towns along the coast. The trip from Amalfi to Positano is only 17 kilometers (slightly over 10 miles) but in summer months often takes about 40 minutes by bus along the harrowing road. And believe me, no one in a car will go faster than the bus between towns. I don’t know what they pay the bus drivers, but I’m sure it isn’t enough…!!! If trying to get back to Rome, consider taking the boat from Amalfi to Salerno, and then taking the train to Rome. This route often proves easier than going north to Naples to make the connection.

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The bus ride from Sorrento to the Coast will treat you to surreal images of the Tyrrhenian Sea and educate you as to why you should not attempt to drive along this winding seaside road. The vistas enjoyed during the short (in terms of distance, not necessarily in terms of time) but treacherous journey are breathtaking. The narrow, twisting road and oncoming traffic might prove just as breathtaking.

The Enogastronomica Deli’s wine tasting bar in Positano...

For the wine lover, Amalfi’s restaurants usually have a decent list of wine possibilities, mostly offering wines of Campania. I could find no enotecas that had wine tasting. However, I did find an excellent shop for buying local wines. The enoteca A Puteca has a great selection at reasonable prices. The owners, Luigi and Antonio, both speak passable English and are happy to help customers find a nice bottle. They have resources that will allow you to select a good producer and vintage, very important considerations when contemplating a purchase of any quality Italian vino. A visitor will find the shop while heading inland along the main walking street from the Piazza del Duomo, at via Lorenzo d’Amalfi 45.

The Enoteca A Puteca in Amalfi and one of its helpful owners, Luigi...

Located high in the hills four miles above Amalfi, Ravello is another village certainly worth a visit. Founded in the Thirteenth Century as a convent of the St. Augustine order, Ravello’s solitude and natural beauty has inspired writers, artists and musicians throughout history. Each spring the village hosts a classical music event that draws crowds of tourists as orchestras perform with the plunging mountainsides and the sea as a backdrop.

Somewhat removed from the bustle of the seaside towns, Ravello provides a quiet romantic getaway that affords incomparable views of the coastline far below. It offers numerous hiking possibilities. Most involve hiking down to one of the coastal towns and taking the bus back up the steep slopes. Ravello has ample travel connections by bus to Amalfi during daylight hours. Careful to not miss the last bus of the day, as the taxi fares in this area can prove excessive.

Ravello also boasts the best entoteca in the area. Branko and his partner Reno manage two locations of the Wine & Drugs entoteca, located just off the main square in Ravello. Not to worry, they really don’t sell drugs, just wine. They offer great free tastings of a range of high quality Italian wines. You can tell they love their jobs, as both have an abundant enthusiasm about wine.

Branko turned me on to a great idea about wine in Italy. I explained that I did not want to buy a bottle because you could not bring that bottle into a restaurant here in Italy and enjoy it with a dinner. That is the general understanding, and when you question a restaurant owner about the practice without a bottle in hand, he will almost always say it’s not allowed. Branko advised to just bring the bottle to the restaurant, explain that you must drink it to avoid packing it, and if the restaurant will not allow it, that you will go elsewhere for the meal.

I tried this tactic twice, and each time the owner gladly relented and permitted me to open the bottle with my dinner. Of course, I shared a taste with him and the server, and tipped appreciatively for the concession. One very charming restaurant that happily welcomed me and my bottle of wine was the Risto, located just off the main piazza in the town of Amalfi.

The island of Capri offers another interesting possibility for a side trip from any of the coastal towns. Situated within five miles of the tip of the Sorrento peninsula, tourists can easily reach the island within an hour by boat. The island features dramatic granite cliffs jutting upwards from the sea. It has several little quaint towns, the famed “blue grotto,” some decent beaches, and more remarkable views, especially from the road that goes to the hilltop village of Anacapri.

Spring and summer usually provide the optimal time for touring the Amalfi Coast, as the fall comes with lots of unpredictable rain and the winters sap the seaside spirit with their cold weather. Accordingly, hotels offer drastic reductions in room prices during the off-season. Blessed with good weather, any trip here can provide the storybook vacation of a lifetime.

For more photos from the Amalfi Coast, Sorrento and the Island of Capri, see the following page...

Branko and Reno of Wine & Drugs in Ravello...

Boats like this one transport visitors along the coast and to the offshore islands, such as Capri...